Towards the end of our stay in Lake Garda Ruby came down with a bad cough and cold. From there we headed to Villa Campresti olive oil resort not far from Florence. We completed a bread & focaccia making course and Ruby planted her own olive tree on the property. We were then due to head 4hours south to a part of Tuscany called le Marenna. However, with Ruby feeling very unwell that day and Paul being worried about the long car journey we decided to head to San Gimignano, only an hours drive away. Ruby was sick in the car and feeling rather ill was more than happy to return to the beautiful medieval town where we had stayed for one night back in April. This also gave me the chance to complete 3 long stages of the famous Via Francigena and Paul a chance to enjoy a few rides in the sweeping Tuscan valleys. My walks meant a couple of drop offs or pick ups so we all visited some nearby towns including Monteriggione, a small hilltop village resembling a crown. Paul enjoyed his Porchetta panini and cinghali (pork) dishes and we all enjoyed our Dondoli gelati. I was so thrilled to complete 70km on foot through the Tuscan countryside from 15km north of San Gimignano to Siena through vineyards, farms, ancient villages and bush tracks. Our room in the villa was positioned in a tower that made us feel like the Royal family and the pool in the garden was a perfect way to cool off each day. We ate mostly in the villas restaurant where the chef baked his own quality breads and cakes and the menu was strictly traditional and local. Ruby felt better within a couple of days so it was a great way to relax for both Ruby and Paul.
La Via Francigena
Il Palio in Siena
Our first stopover before we settled in a Lucca was the stunning city of Siena. This picture perfect city has steep, narrow and winding streets lined with perfectly presented buildings with ornamental doors and windows. Piazza del Campo with its characteristic tower (Torre della Mangia) impressed us as did the beautiful cuisine and gorgeous churches. A man we met mentioned we should return for il Palio in July or August. So we looked into it and booked a package including finish line grandstand tickets, pre event dinner with a Contrada and accommodation for 3 nights. We were given the Contrada Aquilla which had yellow and royal blue colouring and the Eagle as its symbol. We were so excited that I think we bought everything possible to support our neighbourhood and wore their silk scarf proudly. The night before we attended the practice race and stood in the middle of the piazza along with thousands if other excited spectators. The horses, jockeys and officials went through all the procedures and a trial race, albeit not at full speed. It was fantastic to see the race from this position. The dinner the night before the race was set for 400 people from our Contrada on long tables set along the street. It started at 9pm and involved 4 courses of delicious food along with speeches and outbursts of the Contrada's song. The next day we witnessed a horse blessing and visited a church that had the Palio (the winner's banner) hanging over the alter. We were due to arrive at our grandstand seat by 5pm but it was super hectic fighting through the crowds to find the entry gate. Once we talked our way in we had no idea how to get to our seat. Then, it became clear that we actually had to duck underneath the grandstand where security men removed a few steps and then we climbed a very narrow ladder to arrive on the top of the grandstand. Paul found this particularly challenging (they had to remove more steps); it was quite crazy. Right on 5pm the formal procession of the 17 Contradas, their drummers, flag throwers, banner holders and horsemen commenced and lasted 2 hours, with the tower bell ringing constantly throughout. Then at 7pm the horses and jockeys entered and milled around the start line. Then the mayor announced the horses in order of how they were to line up. Cheers and jeers were called out simultaneously depending on what Contrada you followed or who were considered allies or enemies. At first the grandstands were only half full but right on 7pm all the local Italians filled every spare seat. The gun sounded and the race started with an explosion of speed. Seeing the horses pass so close was breathtaking as they completed the 2 lap course. 2 jockeys fell, our enemy Contrada included, and our horse was way in front until the last bend where it was overtaken and beaten home. I felt exhilarated until I saw the devastation on the faces of our Contrada. They were weeping in the streets. It was sad to see after enjoying the dinner amongst them the night before. I actually cried myself as I walked past them in the street.
Overall, it was a magnificent and moving experience.
Planting the olive tree and our private bread and focaccia making course.
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